Demi Longueur

The English translation of the French words "demi longueur" is half length, it's a term which was popular in the mid-century salons and runways of Paris.

One of the many introductions in the 1950's fashion parade was the ballerina length dresses and gowns that Dior made famous. Dior specifically used the phrase "Demi Longueur" to refer to this longer hem line.

Madam Alexander was quick to incorporate this length into her costuming for Cissy, as shown in this article written by Bruce Allen de Armond.

There are several other terms used for this signature length and there are slight differences in the term of “tea-gown,” “3/4 length” and “ballerina length” . . .  however, overall, "demi longueur" is the one featured in the numerous dresses and gowns made for “Cissy” from 1955 to 1962 by Madame A. 

However, I have wondered if Madame A may have initially been inspired by this beautiful, feminine gown made by Dior in 1947, as she used often tulle to make Cissy's dresses.

Now, do you remember this post, well her hair kept getting tangled and her boots fell apart, so I decided to take a leaf out of Madam A's book and make my Cissy a new outfit . . . my own version of the "demi longueur".

This dress is completely handsewn, including the top stitching on the collar . . .

 

and the pin tucking on the skirt.

I also changed her wig, to a Monique Gold with beautiful ringlet curls. It's still fine hair, but it's more manageable than the one she came with, and as luck would have it, I had a pair of shoes that matched this outfit and which fitted her perfectly.

Sometimes things simply fall into place and now she's redressed, I feel she deserves to keep her original name . . . Cissy!

Cissy's Underwear

After some discussion regarding a name for my Cissy doll, hubby and I have thought seriously about the name Rita, but in the end Cissy kept her name. Looking at her hair and pretty dark brown eyes, she reminded us so much of a young Rita Hayworth. Although Rita's hair wasn't naturally red and her eyes were actually hazel-brown, we still felt there was a resemblance. Can you see it?

For the benefit of my younger readers, who may never have heard of her, she was an extremely beautiful American actress and dancer who achieved fame during the 1940's as one of the era's top stars, appearing in 61 films over 37 years. She was also the first actress to be partnered with both Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly.

Thinking about Rita and the beautiful costumes she wore in those early movies, I am inspired to make clothes for my gal along the similar lines.

However, Rita's clothes were not always slinky like the one above, in private she preferred more casual attire, and for her wedding to Prince Ali Khan in 1949, she wore a dress with sun-ray pleats, which like her pants, are once again fashionable.

Before beginning her outer wardrobe, I made Cissy her undergarments.

Using a translucent cotton batiste to make her cami knickers, fitted waist length camisole and ballerina length half slip, I trimmed them with lace and ribbon roses. After adding the finishing touches to the camisole, I thought the lace looked too heavy for an undergarment, so I shall put it aside for now and make a shorter, more delicate version in keeping with the cami-knickers and slip.

I'm still waiting on dolls to arrive, though they should be here soon. Kitty and Sindy finally made it to Perth on the 24th, and are currently in Sydney.

Cissy's Arrival and Review

Cissy arrived safely on Monday (23rd June) and I immediately stripped her of her clothing so I could see what her body was like and was mostly happy with what I found.

She is jointed at the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and knees. Her head can turn to look up and down as well as side to side, and all of her other joints are sound, so she poses quite well and can stand in her boots unaided.

Her face is beautifully painted with not too much blush and her deep brown sleep eyes open and close smoothly. She has painted eyelashes top and bottom with additional lashes inserted into the lid of the sleep eye.

Cissy's head and arms are vinyl, and the head has a  matte finish like her hard plastic torso and legs. Her arms are a little shiny and feel slightly oily to touch, but I shall give her a spa treatment later to hopefully resolve that issue.

Her hair is extremely fine and felt like it had been sprayed with hairspray, but after several minutes of brushing it was much smoother and free from the occasional knot. Though I must admit this hair could quite easily become entangled, so once I have settled on a style, I'll keep it that way.

I love her glistening stockings and lovely silver grey faux suede boots, though the pants (which are attached to the stockings) are a little loose and tend to slip down just below her waist. So before I begin on her outer garments, I'll be making her some new underwear.

The clothes that came with her were well made, but a little grubby so I have removed the silk flowers and soaked the clothes to see how they'll come up.

A little more information came to light when I opened her tag ~ her Style # is 27005, she was introduced in 2000 and retired in December that same year. My Romantic Dreams Cissy was part of The Couture Collection which also featured Cairo Cissy, Evening of Romance, Hollywood Cissy, Ivana Trump, New York Cissy, Rome Cissy, Shanghi Cissy and Vienna Cissy. She also had her price tag from Nordstrom (with the logo which was used from 1991–2019), the store where she was initially purchased from.

Over all I am happy with my purchase and am looking forward to sewing her complete wardrobe.

Madame Alexander Cissy

Until recently I knew very little about Cissy dolls, I had heard of them of course, but had never seen one in person, nor had I ever been bothered to research them.

I found this photo of an original Cissy that was made somewhere between 1955 and 1959 on the Doll Reference website. However, although I admire this Cissy, I am not, nor have I ever been, keen on owning antique or genuine vintage dolls.

1955-1959 Alexander 21" Cissy Doll Face in Hard Plastic

Then quite by chance I found a couple of Cissy's for sale that were in Australia. At 21 inches tall they were not a size that I would usually be drawn to, but there was something about these dolls (and it wasn't the price) that made me look at them more closely.

When I saw the doll below, I thought she maybe the right Madame Alexander doll for me. After all she wasn't plastic and although she looked a little similar, she was not quite the same. She did, however have a gracefulness about her, that special something that is not always easy to put your finger on, but whatever you may like to call it, she had me hook line and sinker!

ORIGINAL OWNER PHOTO

She was described as being a 21 inch vinyl MA Romantic Dreams Cissy and came with her tag, gown, shoes, slightly messy hair, no hat, nor box (and boxes are only a pain in the butt to store anyway). To to me she was a doll I could "play" with.

ORIGINAL OWNER PHOTO

What's more, I thought she would be the perfect Cissy for me to re-style . . . I mean, I could already see her in my mind dressed a beautiful and luxurious 1950's gown. Perhaps in something designed by Dior, Balenciaga or Schiaparelli.

ORIGINAL OWNER PHOTOS

I didn't think her hair was that messy, and I'm sure with a little tender care it could be wonderful. I really wasn't that taken with the gown, but her little silver grey boots were a real treat, though I would like her to have a more elegant shoe to wear with the gown I shall make for her.

ORIGINAL OWNER PHOTO

Well that's it for me, I have lots to do today . . . I need to organise and tidy my studio so I can begin looking through my stash for fabrics for those suitable for what I have envisaged.  Have a great dolly week everyone!

P.S. Kitty and Sindy have finally finished their 12 day journey on tour from Pennsylvania to Kentucky then back to New York, to catch a plane from John F. Kennedy International Airport, HOPEFULLY this time to their final destination! 

Honestly, I thought Australia Post was bad enough, but this takes the cake! I'm darned if USPS's right hand, knows what it's left hand is doing lately, perhaps it's simply trying to keep US citizens in jobs???

P.P.S. Their next stop today (18th) was Hong Kong International Airport . . . looks like Kitty and Sindy are really enjoying an around the world trip!!