Tutorial: 1:6 Scale Table Lamp

Requirements:
3mm dowel (or a bamboo skewer)
Something to use as a base (I used an upside down large flower bead)
Beads (size of your choice with 3mm hole)
A cardboard toilet roll inner
Scrap-booking card (not paper)
Elastic bands (optional)
Flame-less tea light
Foam-core scrap
PVC glue
Trims (ribbon and/or braid)

I wanted to make some lamps to go either side of my kidney shaped dressing table. At first I tried using wire with some beads I had in my stash to create a lamp base, without a great deal of success I might add, they ended up leaning like the Tower of Pisa. So I changed my thinking and began with something a little more stable . . . some 3mm dowel which I had previously purchased from Riot Art.

Then I found some hard plastic flowers in my odds and ends box, which were off a set of earrings from the Op-Shop. They only had a small hole, so  I asked hubby to drill it larger to insert the dowel.

Now I needed beads with holes large enough to take the dowel, so I ordered fifty 6x8mm brass spacers and ten 14x10mm faceted glass rondelles online from the Australian based Over the Rainbow as I knew I would receive them quickly.

Prior to this, I had purchased a set of 6 flame-less tea lights (and batteries) from Ikea, one of which you can see in the above photo. I find these are handy to have for various projects, another of which I have already shown you when I made my fireplace.

To make the lamp shade, I used the toilet roll inner to wrap a 13.75 x 7cm piece of scrap-booking card the outside, glued the seam and held it in place with elastic bands until it tried.

Then I selected some pink all purpose craft ribbon to match the base and some gold Ric Rac which would pick up the gold spacers, to trim the shade top and bottom.

This is quite fiddly and I didn't want glue everywhere, so I tipped a small amount of glue into a small bowl and used a toothpick to spread the glue where it was required . . . no drips and no mess!

After assembling the beads on the dowel, I cut two small a round pieces of foam-core, the same size as the tea light (just trace around the light), glued them together and made a small hole in the centre. This becomes a platform to sit the tea light on.

You could use a single piece of thicker foam-core if you have it, but I only had a thin piece of scrap.

I also needed to shave a little off the circle to fit it securely in the lampshade, so I did this a tiny bit at a time, checking after each shave until it fitted perfectly.

After trimming the dowel with my side cutters, I gently eased the dowel with the foam-core platform attached inside the lampshade about 1cm from the bottom, making sure it was secure with glue. I then switched the tea light on before placing it onto the foam-core platform . . . and there you have a working lamp. You can take the tea light out to switch off the lamp when you don't want it shining.

Incidentally, my collection of vintage micro miniature perfume bottles turned out to perfect 1:6 scale and came in handy for this display . . . the round one is 3.5ml Karl Lagerfeld Chloe Au De Toilette and the square one is 1.5ml Chanel No5.

I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial, I certainly enjoyed making the lamps. :)

Have a great weekend everyone! 

Big hugs,

X

Tutorial: Mid-Century Wall Clock

This is a really easy and quick project to do.

All you need is some cardboard, a pair of scissors, a cutting knife, PVC glue,

twelve sewing pins with coloured heads,

a ruler and a pencil (to measure the centre of the circle and to mark where to place your pins)

a scrap-booking brad to hold everything together,

a couple of pieces of thin foam cut to size (I used some little shapes from my stash, you can purchase these from any craft shop)

something to make the hands (thin plastic from a butter or similar container)

put it all together and voila! You have a mid century wall clock. :)

Tutorial: Making a Simple Doll Stand

Supplies & tools needed:

Wooden base (I bought mine from Spotlight). You can use any shape you like and you can also find wooden coasters which are suitable for smaller/lighter dolls.

I already had 12 gauge (2mm) aluminium wire (from Over the Rainbow) however, I'm using their 1/8" (3.2mm) Armature or Modelling Wire which is a little more expensive, but will hold most dolls.

Hollow aluminium tubing (the hole should be large enough to insert the wire doubled, I bought 10 x 1mm from Bunnings).

Needle nose pliers and side cutters.

Hack saw to cut the tubing and drill to make a hole in the base (borrowed from hubby's workshop).

Glue and trims (optional) the one I am making here needs just a little batting to create the illusion of snow, but you could use faux grass or carpet depending on where you imagine your doll to be standing.

Firstly take your wire and using the pliers to help you bend it into this shape (left) and bend it over and squeeze it tight, then cut it off a little higher than the bottom of the "U".

Insert the wire you just bent into the tubing (right), which will give your stand stability.

Sit your doll in the "U" saddle (left) and mark the base level, then cut the tube a little higher. To get the exact distance measure the depth of your base.


Now take your base and drill a hole the same size as the tubing, make it slightly off center so you have enough room for your doll's feet to stand. Sorry I forgot to take a photo of this.

Next you simply push the tubing in the hole and if necessary glue the tubing in place. Allow the glue to dry and decorate your stand however you wish. Mine was a tight fit, so I didn't need the glue.

You can also make a different type (as you see in the 1st photo) using dowel, however, this doesn't have a "U" saddle for the doll to sit in, it just runs up the back underneath the dolls clothes. It works quite well with some dolls, but not for those with very loose joints.

I know sometimes dolls don't come with stands, especially if you pick one up on the secondary market, so I hope this tutorial helps in some way and you have fun making a few stands of your own.
Big hugs,
X

Tutorial: Sculpting an Ent (Cont.)

After hunting around for something suitable that I could use to cover the base, ordering and being bitterly disappointed with the wired moss, I actually found an imitation grass tile at Bunning's. It was quite large, but I figured I will probably use it for other props down the track.

Because the tile was quite stiff, I had to remove the Ent and mushroom from the base. I then used the wooden base as a template to cut a circle of grass and glued the grass onto the base using PVA glue. Using a scalple I cut a hole where the Ent was to sit and then all that was needed to finish the edges was a little touch up paint, which I mixed to match the grass.

I glued the Ent and mushroom back in place with my glue gun. Then using a couple of different brown acrylic paints, a little harvest gold, a touch of the green that I'd used for the edge of the base, I added streaks of the different colours all over making sure to get in all the grooves. Then I painted a blue grey wash over the top, before adding a final wash of pearl white. This made the bark look shiney, as if it had been weathered smooth by wind and rain.

Tutorial: Sculpting an Ent

This is what happens when three single objects from my stash come together. :)

1. Cardboard inside of a handtowel roll

2. Kaisercraft oval house number plaque or round MDF base

3. Ceramic mushroom

I debated about using the wooden ones shown (top right) but decided against them, I also chose to use a large round base, rather than the small oval base shown in the first two photos.

You will also need a Hot Glue Gun, Aluminium Foil and a

500gram pack of Mont Marte Air Hardening Modelling Clay.

First I marked where I wanted the Ent and the Mushroom to sit on the base.

After hubby drilled the holes to insert the roll and ceramic mushroom, I used my glue gun to secure them in place.

I then wrapped the tube with crinkled aluminium foil, forming two branches for arms and adding a nose.

  

This gave the tube a rough surface for the modelling clay to adhere to.

Now it was time to add the clay. First I divided it into eight pieces, then softened one piece at a time by kneading it between my fingers, then I squished it until I had thin a sheet. I gradually added each piece in layers over the foil. For the eyebrows and moustache I rolled pieces into strips and added them where I wanted them to sit.

Once the Ent was all covered I began using my sculpting tools to smooth the surface making sure the eyebrows and moustache were firmly and attached before creating the bark like finish.

To give him eyesight and to and add some character, I used a couple of Blythe eye chips, but you could use beads or buttons.

When he's and dry I will paint him and add other plant material to complete a little setting for my fairies to be photographed.

Tutorial: Christmas Gingerbread Man

It's been quite a while since I posted a tutorial on here and Alasse's recent posts reminded me of this one, so with Christmas looming here it is ~

Required Materials & Tools
Template plastic
Sharpie Extra Fine Point permanent marker
Tan coloured 100% wool felt (which is available from Mad About Felt)
4mm wide (6mm total width from top to bottom of zig zag.) white ric rac braid (hard to find, but is available from Lace and Beyond or Alacraft)
Perle cotton to co-ordinate with felt
Perle cotton - red for mouth
Tiny black buttons for eyes
Tiny red buttons for nose and front
Threads for sewing buttons on
Sewing needles & scissors
Polyester fibre filling

Instructions:
Firstly draw a freehand gingerbread man shape onto paper. Once you are happy with the shape, trace onto quilter's template plastic or if you wish, trace around a cookie cutter directly onto the plastic. I always use plastic for making pattern templates as the size doesn't change with repeated use and you will probably want to make quite a few of these for Christmas.

Cut out your template, lay it on a good quality wool felt (it keeps it shape and doesn't stretch like acrylic felt) and trace as many as you need, allowing two for each finished man. (Make sure the side with pen marks showing goes to the inside.)


Once you have them all cut out, cut lengths of ric rac slightly wider than the limbs, allowing enough to fold under the edge, do not have any raw edges showing. Pin and stitch each length by hand onto half of the gingerbread men, in the positions shown below.

Now you can add three tiny heart buttons to trim the front as I have done below, and one for the nose. Then add a couple of round buttons for eyes and embroider the mouth with perle cotton.

Place a trimmed man on top of a plain man, pin to hold in position and blanket stitch around the outside, leaving a small opening where shown for stuffing. Do not cut your thread.

Using small pieces of polyfibre fill your gingerbread man, beginning with the limbs, then body and work back to the opening. When you are satisfied your gingerbread man is stuffed neatly, close your opening with blanket stitch.

You can stitch a little ribbon loop to hang them on your Christmas tree, or a brooch back so you can wear them, let your dolls play with them, string them together to make a garland to decorate your home, use them as stocking fillers or add them to the top of your presents . . . I'm sure you will come up with other ideas yourself.

Most of all just have fun!

Tutorial: Easy Summer Dress

Many years ago I used to make these little dresses for my daughters, so it wasn't difficult for me to make them to fit dolls. It's a simple little dress that even a novice could make themselves and I figured it was time to share.

Before we begin, there are two things I consider an asset when sewing is (a) an iron for pressing as I go and (b) thread to match fabric. (I'm using white for this tutorial in the hope you will see it.)

This dolly dress makes up best when using finer fabrics, like Tana lawn and Japanese cotton, and the latter is what I have chosen.

The measurements for this dress are easy to measure for any size. Determine the finished length you want by measuring your doll from shoulder to knee or where you would like the hem to be.

For my LittleFee it was 12cm, then you must allow for the casing (the size of the casing will depend on the width of the ribbon you use. I'm using 6mm ribbon so I allow another 1.5cm) and hem (another 2.5cm) giving you a total of 16cm. The width I use is simply double the length, so I will cut a piece 32 cm long by 16cm wide.

Fold the fabric in half, like so, then cut the fabric in half up the side.
 

Fold each side over 5mm and press it down with your iron, then stitch each side.
 

 

Now put right sides together and measure the length of an armhole plus the top casing allowance and mark it with a pin. In my case I allowed 4cm from the top to the pin. Should you be unsure how big it should be, measure one of your doll's tee-shirts.

Sew both sides of the dress from the pin, to the bottom edge. Then open both seams all the way from the bottom to the top and press flat.
 

 

Next, make the casing for your ribbon on front and back top.  Fold the fabric down 5mm and press. Fold the width of your ribbon plus approximately 4mm down again and iron. Stitch them both down along the bottom of the casing.

 

For the ribbon, you may use a piece on each side twice as long as the dress is wide. Or for a different look, one piece three times the width, which is what I'm doing so I have one bow on the shoulder. Attach a safety pin to the end and feed the ribbon through the casing.

For the two separate ribbons, I fold the dress in half and make sure the ribbon is equal on each side, then sew a little seam in the middle of the casing to hold the ribbon in place. Heat seal the ends of the ribbon to prevent fraying. To do this, hold the ribbon near a flame, but not so as it burns, just to melt the end and seal it off. If this scares you, just tie a little knot at the end of each ribbon.

Now to hem the dress. Fold up from the bottom 5mm and press. Fold up another 10mm, press again then sew the hem down, either by machine or hand using small stitches (which is what I will do).

You can pop a long sleeve skivvy underneath for cooler weather or make a shorter version and pair with shorts or crop pants! Of course if you were using plain fabric, you can always trim with lace or ricrac.

Happy sewing!!